There are recycling services in the UK, but I have no clue about US.

The biggest difference between the two is CoreXY vs CoreXZ. CoreXZ printers like Prusa MK4 are useless in my opinion. Constant bed side to side movement causes your model to vibrate and this vibration amplitude increases with every layer. That means you either have to print everything very slowly or limit yourself to very short models. You’re also missing out on cooling performance.

If you’re looking for an actual upgrade, I’d recommend looking away from bed slingers. Please note that I’m not saying that you should buy any Bambu products, just don’t buy bed slingers.

Explained it above - https://lemmy.world/comment/6119616

Filament is not squeezed as a 2D dot, it’s squeezed as a 3D sphere. If you decrease its radius, it will physically decrease in all three dimensions, not just two.

I have a very old photo printer from Canon and it’s amazing! Produces really high quality photos in A3. And I’ve never had any issues apart from two nuances: it can’t print text documents and its ink is very very expensive. Not your average inkjet expensive, it’s much more expensive and it lasts for like 20 full page prints or something.

On the other hand you’re not getting full colour high quality A3 prints cheaper in a photo lab either. And your average photo lab can’t print photos that good.

That looks cool in 2D, but do it in 3D and you’ll see the issue - your corner will be lower than the rest of the wall.

Takes a lot of effort and it’s not worth it. Fill the layer gaps with epoxy, job’s done.

I personally avoid sanding. I use modelling epoxy to reduce layer line visibility, then I apply a coat or two of high build primer. I only sand a little bit to reduce imperfections from epoxy and primer. Then I use spray can paint and finish with a lacquer.

It’s such a bad piece of software I just don’t get how people can use it…

Ender 3 V3 KE. Skip SE version.

Yes. Also deleting a design puts it into a rubbish bin indefinitely and you can restore them at any time.

You can click export and save F3D file locally. Then you can delete it from the cloud and open a different file from your PC. I have dozens of the designs saved locally.

Must be a new feature, good to know.

PLA

Can you apply them to your drawings/sketches?

FreeCAD is pretty much useless, it still doesn’t have basic modelling features like fillets, chamfers, etc.

10 project limit is in F360 for years now. Also who cares when you can save/open local files?

Then accept the fact that your prints won’t look perfect.

PETG is very runny. Switch back to 0.4mm nozzle.

Great stuff!

I use Copymaster3D PLA most of the time. It’s cheap and locally made. It’s not the best (some colours have some inconsistency issues and white PLA has some crap inside), but it works for prototyping and is very dimensionally stable. I also use their Tough PLA for final parts, it’s more expensive, bit it’s very consistent and prints nicely at higher speeds. Actually it’s main issue is that it’s too leaky so you can’t print it slow - it just sips on its own.

They are most likely collecting dust because they’re cheap crap. It’s like buying a $200 “mountain bike” from Walmart to try it out. Sorry, but you can’t buy a mountain bike for $200, there’s nothing to try out.

Your cheapest option is to buy Ender 3 S1 and upgrade it with SonicPad.

Ender 3 S1 Pro.