Wouldn't you know it, I've been messing with the current release candidate for FreeCAD lately. Just now, I used it to make [this.](https://www.printables.com/model/1039928-gridfinity-configurable-parametric-bins-freecad-so) I got annoyed at having to search through all these multipacks of files to find a Gridfinity bin in the size I want. So I decided the hell with it, and made a parametric configurable FreeCAD model that creates bins or you, in *any* size (within reason) and also with a configurable number of fixed dividers in the bargain. My main intent was, of course, to use these to organize oodles and oodles of pocketknives. You'll never be able to *guess* why. But if you have a use for it, knock yourself out. 

Hello 3d printing community! I am looking to join the ranks and purchase my first 3d printer. Specifically I am looking at the a1 mini. My use case is mostly functional, housing for electronics, hooks and jigs, that sort of thing, so I don't think I need the ams kit although the multicolor printing and support beams of different materials sounds nifty, I also hear bambu printers are really good with supports. My biggest questions to the community are, is this a good choice? What filament should I start with? And I live in a dryer climate, is a filament dryer something I should definitely invest in, and if so what is a decent and decently cheap one you'd recommend? Thank you for taking the time to read (and hopefully reply to) my post.

So I was just wondering what is, in your opinion the best Resin printer to get that just works like how Bambu printers in the FDM space just seem to work. Or Just what resin printer would you recommend purchasing? I have a mars 3 and looking to upgrade to maybe a Saturn 4 ultra because I want a bigger build plate and auto leveling seems nice so it’s one less step I need to do.

I been printing for 9 years. I used to buy bulk filament from monoprice . Sometimes their deals were unbeatable. I went in today to find out they don't have filament anymore. I guess it was not profitable anymore? Maybe they don't stock as much . Anyway..just an observation.

I'm using an ender 3 with a 0.4mm nozzle 

Also good for composting and making room in your recycling bin

Upgrades include: - Frame made of steel tube - E3D V6 clone and E3D titan clone - Noctua heatbreak fan - SKR Mini E3 V3 board - Raspberry Pi running Klipper - G10 build sheet - Bed insulation - ATX power supply - BLTouch Probably missed a few in the list

Thank you guys for pointing out the vref issue in my last post! I got it adjusted, and they were all fairly high so now they should be dialed in. While I was in there, I figured I should probably calibrate the extrusion steps as well. I’ve got a couple larger projects coming down the pipeline. But if I can go off of this cube, I think I’ll be in good shape.

1)You get thru downloading the thing since it advertises support for your printer, 2)Click on it to start using it right? 3)Right? 4)X out of the login window because you don't have a login and don't want one thanks. 5) Put the newly downloaded file in the trash bin. 6) Right click on the trash bin and "empty trash" 7-10) Relax for a bit since you don't have yet another data collecting app spying on you. But then post about how shitty the experience was. I can't believe anyone would actually create a login to use an app like this. Fuck that. I will just use shitty chitubox for now. Fuck^2, but at least I don't live in some shit server with all my 3D models stolen or my credit card or GPS or whatever the fuck they want to get from me. I'm sure chitubox is already doing it, but hey I don't need a password for that.

This one's a real reach. Mo' obsure, mo' better. I got annoyed by my BRS Replicant (clone) showing up with very swanky channel milled handles, but no latch. Yes, it came with a little ballistic nylon belt pouch and no, even I of all people am not a big enough nerd to actually wear it that way. So I made this, which is a little friction fit dingus you can print out of TPU that fits quite snugly over the bite handle and holds the knife shut, but you can slip it over the end of the safe handle with your pinky easily. 

So I'm trying to get my printer to a point where i can pretty consistently turn out high quality prints, but I'm at a point now where i get results like this. These two prints are from the same batch, same print job, and I'm completely clueless on how to fix it. I have an ender 3 v2 with a bltouch, I've adjusted the eccentric nuts, tightened the belts until the tips of my thumb and index finger couldn't tighten them any further, bed is level, using hatchbox pla. I know i can do ironing to fix the cosmetic problem, but I'd prefer to fix the root issue if possible.

> Senior Airman Devon Word, a conventional munitions crew chief from the U.S. Air Force’s 48th Munitions Squadron, solved a perennial ammunition handling issue faced by the 48th Fighter Wing at [RAF Lakenheath](https://theaviationist.com/2022/03/09/first-f-35-for-493fs/), U.K., which often saw 20 mm rounds jamming while moving from the replenisher table to the ammunition loader. The frequent  jamming makes manual intervention necessary, with “15 minutes of troubleshooting per jam” required which “may also cause injury to the operator.” > In fiscal year 2023, according to the [press release](https://www.lakenheath.af.mil/News/Article-Display/Article/3913626/), there were 319 operations resulting in an average of 957 instances of jams using the replenisher table. These accounted for approximately 798 man-hours due to the need for at least four personnel during operations. > Word developed a specially designed 3D-printed insert that addressed the old design issue causing the stoppages – a gap between the rounds and the top of the replenisher table. The unit-level innovation could save the 48th FW and U.S. Air Force over 750 man-hours annually, the unit said. ... 

I currently run a Voxelab Aquila I got for $120 three years ago. It largely replaced a Monoprice Mini, and the Aquila's done some surprisingly good work for me, but I may look for something new to put on the ol' birthday list. I would like a flat bed and some modern QoL improvements built in (he said, side-eyeing the BLTouch clone he never installed), but I'm still looking to play in the shallow-end, price-wise, and anyway Bambu just has "future enshittification" written all over it. I don't do anything time-sensitive, and I'm not afraid to put the whole thing together, so who are the current leaders in the value space? Recent machines from Creality?

Just a quick hobby + learning project. If people are interested I am happy to post more pics. PLA exterior + TPU seals + Nylon (COPA) bushings. Everything is 3d printed except the hardware & motor. The hose adapters have 1/4 NPT ends on them. NPT has a tapered thread so I found that I could screw them in partway by hand then heat them up slightly with a soldering iron to soften the PLA then screw them in the rest of the way. Makes a nice watertight seal despite the roughness of the 3d printed threads. If they start leaking I can unscrew them (leaving behind threads perfectly molded to the fittings) then add some pip seal tape and put them back in. What do you guys think? EDIT: here's a photo of the parts separate  and a video: https://imgur.com/a/cd8co68

Was shocked to see just how broken my couch was when we took it apart. This part which is installed is replacing the cracked wood which was held in with just staples. There's now 3-5 screws

I see a lot of people claim they tune/calibrate their printer any time they use a new spool of filament. But does anyone actually do this? It feels like a waste of time when filament is so consistent, even between brands. I can understand doing it for specialty rolls, but for basic pla? Seems unnecessary

Basically title, the top mount broke so I screwed the mount to a bench. Only seems to be happening with this filament though as I've been running this setup for at least 6 months.

What is the groups focus? I moved to Resin a couple of years ago and my filament printer is in the closet gather dust... but I might break it out one day.

I just installed the CR Touch kit on my Ender 3 Pro. Everything is wired up, but I can't seem to get the Z-Axis offset correct. My process is: 1. Auto-Home 2. Step the Z-Axis down until there's slight resistance on a sheet of paper between the nozzle and bed 3. Take that value (Roughly -1.3) and put it into the Z-Axis Offset value 4. Level bed All of this works, but when the bed is leveling, the CR Touch needle is hitting the bed way earlier than the nozzle by maybe a few mm. When I go to print, there doesn't seem to be adhesion in some places on the glass bed. What am I doing wrong? :(

Printed this a while ago on my Ender 3 Pro. Took forever but came out pretty well.

Just want to share one of my prints. Printer in Ender 3-S1 plus. Painted with Posca pens Smoother in reality than the picture

Hi everybody? I live in Norway and I find it really difficult to buy color changing silica gel balls here. I want to use it to keep and control better my filament rolls while they are stored and also to the AMS on my Bambu X1C. The only alternative I found is on Aliexpress, just a 500gr bottle. I was wondering if anybody else out there has any better alternative.

I received a free broken CR-10S Pro V2 from my cousin, I finally have it repaired well enough to make these nice spiral vases. Here is the full album (not sure how to post albums here yet): https://imgur.com/gallery/sB9y39v

Hello Lemmies. album with photos in order 1-7: https://lensdump.com/a/9Atmx/?sort=title_asc&page=1 EDIT: Direct links may be more convinient pic 1-7 https://i.lensdump.com/i/CbGQ5c.jpeg https://i1.lensdump.com/i/CbGJv1.jpeg https://i.lensdump.com/i/CbGtcQ.jpeg https://i1.lensdump.com/i/CbGrOM.jpeg https://i1.lensdump.com/i/CbGEDk.jpeg https://i3.lensdump.com/i/CbGTse.jpeg https://i2.lensdump.com/i/Cw2uL9.jpeg I am new to 3d printing as I bought a used Ender3PRO. After initial problems with no adhesion I leveled the bed a couple of tiems. My method is to pinch the paper between the bed and the nozzle to grab and feel a strong friction taking out the paper-sheet. Then in PrusaSlicer I set the Z-offset to 0.2mm and it started printing fine-ish (pic.1, 2, 3 and 4). I made some printer vibrations dampener and figures (around 14 prints ~1,5h each). Next I printed a PS4 Slim Stand (pic.5) and separations between layers appeared. I increased a bit the temp and run a second piece of the PS4 stand and a dissaster appeared (pic.6) and since then the adhesion to the bed is gone. One in 5 attempts with some glue the filament sticked to the bed, but the next layers have a lot of missplacements and eventually filament sticked arround the nozzle and a destroyed print. The problems I noticed since the beginning: 1. adhesion is not great. The nozzle clean line is 80% of attempts dragged with the nozzle to the center of the bed when the brim starts printing. And gets curved just outside the hotend. 2. a 1-2mm of filament is always outside the nozzle (overextrusion?). I usually clean it with my fingers - wrong? 3. the printer has a glass bed but I would like to try using the magnetic Ender sheet. The glass is glued to the printer (pic.7)? Can I place the magnetic sheet on the glass? Should I then set Z-offset on the printer settings to avoid nozzle coliding with the bed? 4. On retraction, the extruder makes a loud click and sometimes a squeak. Is it normal? 5. I had a hard time to put the filament in the tube of the extruder. Like it was missplaced and had to bend the tip of the filament. 6. I washed the magnetic sheet with dish-soap and I'll try my chances today. 7. The PLA is black, stock Ender3 filament which I suppose is not best quality, but should be sufficient for start... Im also considering moisture in filament as I don't have a sperate room for my printer. Pic.6 - can it be caused by moisture? 8. After what happender on Pic.6 the extrusion was really poor which I think was due to clogged nozzle. After heating to 240*C, pulling out the filament, needle-cleaning the nozzle the amount of filament extruded returned to what it was at start. Some settings: - 205*C and 60*C for first layer - 200*C and 55*C for the rest - retraction ON - no Z-hop (I'll try to avoid it for now, since it didn't help) - brim on - 0,2 layer height - first layer speed 20mm/s, rest ~40mm/s Any advice welcome and I'll provide more info if You have any questions.

Scaled this guy up 270% to just about 12" tall. Printed each piece separately and took me a long time even on the X1C. Then it took some more time figuring out how to glue it together. Unfortunately it looks like the author removed it from thingiverse.

I've been making display stands for other portables, and for some reason I never made one for the Game Gear. You can download it on: Printables: https://www.printables.com/model/517392 Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6103488

Hello, I've done the usual ebay and craigslist, and I keep dropping the price, but it seems people don't buy used 3d printers that way, or maybe I'm still asking too much? I don't know. Has anyone sold an old printer before to make room for a new one?

https://www.printables.com/model/465940-voron-stealthburner-cheap-nozzle-camera-endoscope- Been running for months now in a heated chamber! These cameras should be easy to adapt to most printers. It was only supposed to be a temporary addition to fit for troubleshooting, but it's holding up to almost constant use really well!

A set of radius gauges from 1mm to 40mm have been one of the tools I use the most for functional print design. I tried several different ways of organizing these. Pictured is a small cheap fishing line leader. This is the only useful way to do radius gauges in practice. They stay together and in order, while having the freedom to fit into and around tight spots. I tried rigid mounting to a body like a pocket knife, a single threaded rod through all, and a loose organizer. These are all terrible ideas in practice. Find or design this same style pictured. I think I got these from thingiverse, (one of the only things I still have that I did not design myself). Slice the file like I did with a color change going from dark to light to dark filaments. You can set a manual color change in the slicer settings. You do not need a special machine for this. Use neutral colors for the gauges. This makes it easy to spot the tiny gap when the inner or outer radius are not quite perfectly matched to your part. You also need the numbers debossed in negative into the print so that they resolve well enough and do not get in the way. Note that these have the same inner and outer radius on each part so they can be used to measure either. PLA is preferred to avoid warping and use dried or fresh material. Do a proper calibration before printing these. Do all the things knowing that this is one tool you'll use for many years.

I've been having weird first layer issues for months. My z offset seemed all over the place and I found myself manually adjusting each print. Had no clue what the issue was until I noticed my bltouch wasn't perfectly straight. Turns out the mounting screws had loosened slightly leaving ~1/2mm play in its location compared to the nozzle. Tightened then up and printed my first absolutely perfect first layer in months.

Hi all, I’ve had a look on thingiverse, but might be using the wrong search term. I want to create a custom computer keyboard plate that is choc-switch spaced. Are there templates for the slot that a choc switch would clip into (correct width, height & depth) that I could incorporate into a keyboard case layout?

> We are a picture heavy community here. There are several options to help lessen the load on Lemmy instance caching. One option is to join/host a [Pixelfed](https://pixelfed.org/) Fediverse instance. Another option is [Post Images](https://postimages.org/). When you are ready to share an image in a comment or post, upload the image to the hosting website, right click/select the hosted picture, and in your browser select view image in a new tab. Your image hosting option must only display the image on this tab for the image to display properly here. Copy the link from this new browser tab and paste it into the image URL option inside your posts or comments. Thanks! This is intended mostly for users posting links generated by places like imgur that are not the raw image content. These links from imgur include user trackers and do not work well, or at all, with privacy focused browsers. The [Post Images](https://postimages.org/) website functions like imgur did originally, but has a terms and conditions policy you may or may not agree with. I only mention it as an option because of ease of use. You can embed URL link images into the main post and into comments using the \[](imageURL) or button built into the comment editor. EDIT: the syntax for embedding URL images in a comment is: \!\[image](http://this.isTheOnlyPartOfTheSyntaxYouEdit.url/and-this-must-be-an-image-only-and-end-in-an-image-format-like.jpeg) Ex.2: \!\[image](https://my.image.url/pic1.jpeg) Full disclosure [META-INCEPTION]: I am not knowledgeable about the fediverse back end, or its data management. I have seen posts by users that seem more knowledgeable than myself writing about trying to avoid posting images directly to the instance. I have seen a conversation in the Self Hosted community about the size of the instance picture cache and how long instances plan to keep it around. I have no clue how the picture cache on each instance relates to post image retention and permanence. When making posts, using URLs hosted elsewhere the post seems to upload faster IMO. I have asked Ruud about what he considers best practices for visual media. He declined to comment about images. He mentioned they may look into native video support in the future and that we could always make an account on his peertube server and (externally) link to posts there to share here. Please inform me if there is anything I have misunderstood.

Hi! New to the community, new to 3d printing, new to all of this. I am heavily considering the Prusa Mini as my first printer. - Want a brand that is a good citizen in the 3d printing community and Prusa seems to be on this list. - Want a high quality printer to begin my adventure with that doesn't leave me guessing if it's my lack of skill or a lack of quality hardware. - Want open design to enable to tweak and improve the hardware/software as I see fit. - Linux user who wants full Linux support in the software stack. - I want to spend as little as possible on my first printer (still want high quality) because I see myself spending a lot more fairly quickly if I enjoy this as much as I suspect I will. Fortunately I can spend what I need to meet my current requirements but keeping cost down as much as possible is the goal. - Enjoy tinkering with hardware and software. Have a background in electronics and Linux system administration. Would you agree that the Prusa Mini is a good starting spot considering the above? The pricing I see in reviews etc seems to be lower then what is currently being offered on the Prusa site. Do they often have sales or specials or is this just because the cost of production has gone up? I see reviews that indicate a price of $349 but it's going for $429 on the Prusa site currently. Should I consider adding the filament sensor and any extra build sheets? Filament from them or elsewhere? Anything I am missing or not considering? Any and all feedback is welcomed! Thanks ahead of time!

I spent entirely way too much time trying to get one of these style extruders on my Ender 3. Maybe I picked a knock off without realizing it, maybe mine was just defective, I'm not entirely sure. But it was ultimately the cause for my printer underextruding on certain layers. If you need a new extruder, go for something better than these cheap $20 ones and get an actually decent one. But on the bright side, my printer is finally fixed! It feels nice to be able to get back into the hobby again.