I'm excited to see this as I'm pretty much only use Z-Wave. Also interesting is they are developing their own dongle

Is anyone else having issues with the Rheem Econet integration? It worked so well for so long but now it spends most of its time disconnected from Econet. It appears to reconnect every few minutes for a bit but it seems like every time I open the home assistant app, my thermostat is not functioning. The actual thermostat in my house is functioning normally and connected to the network. Do you guys have any suggestions?

My SmartThings Hub is (slowly) starting to error out more and more. I'm doing a soft reset monthly to keep everything up ( I did a hard reset about a year ago when I moved), which works, but I think it's time I start learning a new hub, preferably one not discontinued. My original plan was to put everything in Home Assistant when this time came, but a.) I really like it as my home coordinator with my custom scripts and addons and I don't want to mess with what is working right now and b.) while I'm getting the hang of running zigbee on there, zwave is in progress and thread...not really working most of the time. So. I need to buy a general all-protocol hub; any recommendations that are fully compatible with Home Assistant? One with custom scripting would be a huge plus; I miss doing that in SmartThings.

Looking for some well priced door sensors. I heard the Xfinity / Comcast ones on ebay do well and also do temperature. Anyone have any experience with them or know if anything better priced?

I’m familiar with IR but like… does it need to be in the same room as my tv? My entire house has RF fans and I’d love to buy one device but idk if it’ll cover the whole 1700 sqft, or even other closed rooms. IR is a nice to have but I mostly care about RF. Does that need to be in the same room? Thanks y’all.

Hey all, So I'm relatively new to node-red and have a seems-easy-can't-figure-it-out problem I'm creating a remote with a zigbee IR blaster and building out the automations in Node-red. While automation is working - I'm cleaning it up a bit to look better and trying to do the following. Button press (IR code as payload) ->> node?? JSON template I can put payload in as a variable ->> MQTT node. I am just looking for whatever node goes in the middle. I just need a node where I can place the JSON format and insert the IR code from the previous Node. Thanks!

Can you recommend me any good LAN/WiFi Zigbee coordinators for Home Assistants ZHA? Most preferable which can be ordered from Aliexpress or somewhere in the EU Bonus question: are WiFi coordinators usually that much worse than LAN coordinators even if they're directly next to the WiFi router?

Disclaimer: I haven’t done a lot of research yet. Still in the “how to handle this” stage. My profile: Senior Full Stack Web App - with own infrastructure in the cloud, unraid locally. HASSOS in a vm. Q: in September I’m getting solar panels. My parents lended me the money on the condition they can use up the extra energy I set the net. We live in Belgium and that is possible *but* to do so they have to take it at most 15 minutes after. For normal usage this is fine but I’m talking heat pump and machines and such. Both houses have a home assistant setup. His is even more automated than mine. Both run on on a decent machine. Both have stable internet (UniFi) and he is paying for home assistant cloud. Atm I am not. Now I do have a digital meter and just integrated that with my instance. First I made my own cable but then I stumbled upon “slimmelezer+” module and that thing is just fantastic! Anyway now I have access to real time data. What would you do to get it to the other instance? I do not have a lot of time but I am experienced with webservices and have the servers. This would be read only off course! lol but I was wondering if any of you knew a project or has done this him/herself. I’m thinking the easiest way would be for me to pay for cloud access and then create a user for them. They can then add my home to their apps. But it would be super duper sweet to fully integrate both houses!

I noticed in the past month that my daily energy production doubled in size. The problem is persistent but doesn't show up on a daily basis. I don't have a definite fix but can however fix these weird spikes manually. I decided to post to show how to correct these spikes when they occur. Let's say there's a weird spike in the evening which adds 100kWh to my Solis Energy Today kWh. This would look like this:  The problem is located on a sensor which reports the daily kWh total. In this case it's Solis. My next step would be to go to the settings menu and look for Development settings > Statistics Tool and look for the sensor which has the problem. Then it's a search to the right moment on which the error occurs. In this case see:  Now just adjust the incorrect value to the desired one. In my case this is 0. Then just reload the energy dashboard and the error won't show. Good luck for whoever gets into the same boat.

Hey all! Did some research on this but does not seem to be too much out there on this subject. Does anyone have any battery operated candles they have successfully integrated with Homeassistant? The number one solution I see is buying candles with a remote and then using a IR bridge to turn them on and off. I'm not sure how reliable this ost or where to start. I think I would need a IR bridge for at least two different parts of the house that then connect back to home assistant and then I would also need candles with IT remotes that I could control from the hass bridge.

Given that the air quality is going to shit in m y area again, I figured I'd show off my air quality cards! Let me know if you have any questions. The colors for the AQI cards are from US EPA's color set and the the PM2.5 color values are based off EPA's PM2.5 exposure over 24 hours  ^ These are based off the stock gauge card. ``` type: gauge entity: sensor.airnow_aqi name: AQI unit: ' ' needle: true min: 20 max: 500 segments: - from: 0 color: '#00e400' - from: 51 color: '#ffff00' - from: 101 color: '#ff7e00' - from: 151 color: '#ff0000' - from: 201 color: '#8f3f97' - from: 301 color: '#800000' ``` ``` type: gauge entity: sensor.airnow_pm2_5 name: PM2.5 needle: true min: 0 max: 200 segments: - from: 0 color: '#64a13c' - from: 12.6 color: '#eac51c' - from: 26 color: '#d67900' - from: 51 color: '#a90737' - from: 151 color: '#50051e' ```  ^ This one is based off the mini-graph-card, which I really like. ``` type: custom:mini-graph-card name: Air Quality icon: mdi:air-purifier hours_to_show: 12 points_per_hour: 1 smoothing: false color_thresholds: - value: 0 color: '#00e400' - value: 51 color: '#ffff00' - value: 101 color: '#ff7e00' - value: 151 color: '#ff0000' - value: 201 color: '#8f3f97' - value: 301 color: '#800000' entities: - entity: sensor.airnow_aqi name: AQI - entity: sensor.airnow_o3 name: Ozone color: '#3399ff' show_state: true - entity: sensor.airnow_pm2_5 name: PM2.5 color: '#ff7777' show_state: true y_axis: secondary ```

I have a router set up just for my wifi cameras. The router is not plugged into the internet, but it is directly connected to one of two Ethernet ports on my ×86 home assistant server. The other Ethernet port for Home Assistant is connected to the internet. Is there any chance a device connected that router could somehow access the internet from homeassistant?

Hey guys, Yesterday I have finished installing two LED strips to my kitchen. Both strips are CCT, connected to separate outputs on 5 channel dimLED zigbee dimmer. The dimmer can work in single colour, CCT, rgb, rgbw and rgbww modes. If I set it to CCT mode, it shows up in HA as single light and both strips are controlled in tandem. instead of replacing it with two 2ch dimmers, my idea is to switch it to rgbw mode and somehow convince HA to see them as two CCT lights. Honestly though, I am confused with how empty my config file is. There aren't any of my zigbee divices. (I guess i was experimenting with HA long time ago and mostly with ESP devices). Has anyone tried something like this? I am using a Sonoff zigbee USB stick and ZHA integration. Cheers

Hi everyone. I know there on tons of posts on the old sites threads about the mechanics of swapping from smart things to HA. Just wondering if you all have any advice on other things that might come up? I'm about to move in to a new house. I have an instance of HA working on a little pc. I have tons of smart bulbs connected to ST, hue and others. My wife is an angel, so I probably have a good amount of time to get this right, but I also want her happy lol. Anything I should look out for? Any personal nightmares of making your own swap? Thanks

Hey guys! I'm trying to bind an Ikea LED bulb to a TRADFRI switch. But I've never done a zigbee mqtt binding... Is there anywhere i could get instructions? Thanks a lot!

I figured we could all share some of the cooler things we've done to get the conversation moving in here. Here are some of the automations I'm proud of and get the most use out of. **Blinds and Lighting** - Open and close the blinds (Ikea Fyrtur) according to the light levels outside - If a window is open, the blind will only close to 50%, but it will close automatically after the window is closed - Turn all lights off when the blinds are opened, and turn lights on in occupied rooms when the blinds are closed - Automatically close the blinds in the bedroom and bathroom when the shower is on. Open them after we leave the master suite. **Websites** - (Selenium) Auto login to Amazon to check on the status of my Kindle daily reading streak and notify me if I forget to read. We must keep the streak intact! - Auto categorize new transactions in YouNeedABudget and mark them as approved, as well as pull my net worth into Home Assistant - Get my most-listened to tracks and artists from Last.FM and pull those into Home Assistant - Notify me if there are documents in my Paperless-NGx server that need to be categorized and filed **Reminders** - When I walk in the door, announce any outstanding Todoist tasks marked with the @alert label so I know to do it before I sit down. Examples are to change the furnace filter or Venmo my friend for Youtube TV - I run OCR on the camera feed from my garage camera to determine whether the bins are in the garage. The bins say Trash and Recycling on top, so I look for those words in the image. If they are in the garage in the evening before trash day, I receive an alert **Media and Torrenting** - Notify me and display a badge in Home Assistant when there is a pending request in Overseerr - (Selenium) Log into my favorite private torrent tracker website from Node-RED to check whether I need to take any actions **HVAC** - Preheat or pre-cool the house prior to peak electricity pricing going into effect. During peak hours, auto adjust the thermostat to prevent it from running - Turn the thermostat off if there are windows open. Automatically restore previous setting (cool or heat) when all windows are closed. - Turn the bathroom fan on after the shower is turned off and no one is around. Turn it off after 80 minutes or the humidity in the bathroom is within 10% of the humidity in the bedroom, whichever comes first. **Misc** - Node-RED monitors the status of my UPSes for my servers. If the battery drops below 50% while the power is out, it initiates graceful shutdowns of my Synology and other servers - Auto sort the Home Assistant grocery list upon adding a new item

I’m planning to put HA on a pi, with a usb [antenna](https://amzn.eu/d/ggKlOwv) I can’t decide which bulbs to use, Philips hue looks great but it’s pricey and I’m pretty sure it’s got too much “phone home” crap. I don’t want anything to leave my network. If I can use Hue bulbs without the hub, or block the hub from phoning home I would consider it? I found some Sengled bulbs that look fine, but I don’t know if they are any good. Can someone recommend some decent bulbs? Colour ones preferably, but white is OK too. Any other advice? Got a home server, so can host just about anything to get this working together.

Hi everyone! I currently have a Neato D7 with a broken brush motor. It's 3 years old, so no more warranty. Given that [Neato is shutting down](https://www.engadget.com/robot-vacuum-maker-neato-is-shutting-down-amid-stiff-competition-204959296.html), I want to buy a new vacuum altogether. Here's my wishlist: * Home Assistant integration (duh) * Vacuum + mopping * Local control would be cherry on top * LIDAR navigation (we run it mostly during the night) * Easy to service & reliable (should be easy to service the robot and buy replacement parts) Any suggestions / recommendations?

Ideally what im looking for is something like a nest hub but without any built in assistant. I was thinking about buying a cheap tablet and keeping it on a dock or making something custom with a raspi but im curious if anyone has found an off the shelf alternative?

Can anyone recommend a thermostat system that is self-hosted (no third-party cloud) and integrates into homeassistant nicely? Something tasmota based would be even better. This is the final bit of home automation that's been difficult to solve. I've got a heat pump system and there are very few smart thermostat systems that aren't beholden to a public cloud service.

Hey all! I'm looking for a mythical local-only (Wifi, Z-Wave, or Zigbee) smart light switch that has a good *feel* and user experience when manually switching on/off. What I mean by that: I think my ideal UX is some sort of hard rocker switch like the very much *not* smart [Leviton Decora switches](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-Decora-15-Amp-Single-Pole-Rocker-AC-Quiet-Light-Switch-White-10-Pack-M32-05601-2WM/202204204). You hit the top of the rocker for on or hit the bottom of it for off, and it has a good, solid feel with each state change. The problem comes when making one of these switches "smart," e.g. stuffing a [Shelly](https://www.shelly.cloud/en-us/products/switching-and-triggering#unfiltered) or something behind it. The up/down directions won't correspond to on/off anymore, because the smart switch can turn the light on/off without affecting the rocker direction. Maybe this is okay and I just need to deal with it? Does anyone with a similar setup find this annoying? I guess it's no different than a traditional three-way switch. Another option is to take out the dumb switches and replaces them entirely with smart ones. Almost all smart switches are single on/off toggle buttons (some have two buttons), sidestepping the up/down state problem described above. But I'm not sure I'd like the feel of a squishing a button into the wall instead of a tilting a rocker. I do have a few of an older model of this [Eva Logik switch](https://www.amazon.com/Dimmer-Switch-Required-Compatible-Listed%EF%BC%88WF31S%EF%BC%89/dp/B08SW92L3M), which has two buttons and kinda sorta mimics the look of the Decoras—but it doesn't actually rock like traditional switches. The up/down buttons are more like clicky mouse buttons, and not the best tactile experience IMO. Plus, newer models apparently are no longer Tuya-convertible to Tasmota... So am I just being too picky here? Does anyone else experience similar issues? EDIT: Here's a TL;DR of the suggestions below, for anyone also looking to solve a similar probem: * Use a Jasco/GE Enbrighten series smart switch (Z-Wave, Zigbee, or Wifi) * Use a TPLink Kasa switch (Wifi via HA `tplink` integration) * Try an Innovelli Blue switch (Zigbee; there's also a Z-Wave variant) * Open your wallet for a Lutron Caséta Diva/Claro (proprietary, but local only) * Use a SONOFF SwitchMan M5 smart switch (Wifi?) * Just deal with your OCD and put a Shelly behind a dumb switch

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/110673 > Hey all, > > i want to hack a portable AC. The devices communicates via UART between Mainboard and control unit (LCD and Buttons). As we still want to use the original controls, i had the idea to put an ESP32 in the middle of the communication (using UART2 for the mainboard and UART3 for the control board). > > I don't want to reverse engineer the whole protocol, only the relevant parts. So, i need a way to forward all messages in both directions, to make this work as it should. > > Has anybody done such a thing already? Or has any tips how to do it. > > I'm fluent in C++, so there is not barrier here, but i am new to the codebase of ESPHome

They wouldn't be able to do that if all of their devices were in Home Assistant

Google Pixel Tablet review: Clever accessories transform an unexciting tablet

Scrolling through hundreds of entities is painful.

Hello lemings and old redditors! I have counter for each of medication that gets decrement with automations once or twice a day at specific time. That works fine, but now I'd like to see for how many days I have pills left before I have to resupply. For example I take 2 pills of decortin per day and since there are 8 in counter I have enough for next 4 days and that will be on 21.06.2023. But I take 4 pills of envarsus per day and that means I have to resupply in 7 days since there are only 29 pills left. So basically I want a Card on my dashboard with 2 additional columns, how can I do that?

Release 2023.6.2 - June 14 Change pyoppleio to pyoppleio-legacy (@tinysnake - #88050) (opple docs) Fix issue with Insteon linked devices maintaining current state (@teharris1 - #94286) (insteon docs) Bump elkm1-lib to 2.2.5 (@gwww - #94296) (elkm1 docs) Bump pylitterbot to 2023.4.2 (@natekspencer - #94301) (litterrobot docs) Upgrade sisyphus-control to 3.1.3 (@jkeljo - #94310) (sisyphus docs) fix: electrasmart - cast temperature to int in set_temperature (@jafar-atili - #94368) (electrasmart docs) Fix dep noaa-coops for noaa_tides (@jbouwh - #94370) (noaa_tides docs) Fix deprecated asyncio.wait use with coroutines (@syssi - #94371) (xiaomi_miio docs) Update xknxproject to 3.1.1 (@farmio - #94375) (knx docs) Re-add event listeners after Z-Wave server disconnection (@raman325 - #94383) (zwave_js docs) Fix ZHA binding api to actually return responses (@jasonkuster - #94388) (zha docs) Abort youtube configuration if user has no channel (@joostlek - #94402) (youtube docs) Update knx-frontend to 2023.6.9.195839 (@farmio - #94404) (knx docs) Bump unifiprotect to 4.10.3 (@AngellusMortis - #94416) (unifiprotect docs) Fix: Xiaomi Miio Fan, delay off countdown unit conversion (@golles - #94428) (xiaomi_miio docs) Add unit inference for Amps and VA in APCUPSD integration (@yuxincs - #94431) (apcupsd docs) Fix manual update for Command Line (@gjohansson-ST - #94433) (command_line docs) Fix reload service in Command Line (@gjohansson-ST - #94436) (command_line docs) Set default value for endpoint in zwave device automations (@raman325 - #94445) (zwave_js docs) Revert “Bump pydaikin 2.9.1 (#93635)” (@mover85 - #94469) (daikin docs) Bump russound_rio to 1.0.0 (@chphilli - #94500) (russound_rio docs) Fix entity and device selector TypedDict’s (@raman325 - #94510) Bump yalexs-ble to 2.1.18 (@bdraco - #94547) (august docs) (yalexs_ble docs) Bump regenmaschine to 2023.06.0 (@bachya - #94554) (rainmachine docs) Update Home Assistant base image to 2023.06.0 (@frenck - #94556) Catch InvalidAuthError in shutdown() method for Shelly gen2 devices (@bieniu - #94563) (shelly docs) Fix keyboard_remote for python 3.11 (@lanrat - #94570) (keyboard_remote docs) Fix failed recovery in roku (@ctalkington - #94572) (roku docs) Fix failed recovery in ipp (@ctalkington - #94573) (ipp docs) Improve multipan debug logging (@emontnemery - #94580) (homeassistant_hardware docs)

Did anyone tried this? If so - what are results?

I'd like to get an outdoor Temperature Sensor that can be used with HA and Google Home. Anyone have any recommendations?

To expand on a previous poster asking about local only devices in general... Has anyone found a reliable local only doorbell? I've been meaning to replace my Ring doorbell ever since Amazon bought them. I finally bought a Reolink WiFi doorbell and it looks great and was really easy to set up without Internet or their app, BUT... It doesn't work. Capture to FTP gives me nice clear images but the videos are corrupt, maybe truncated. I can't even open them with VLC. I tried installing an SD card and then moving the SD card to my laptop. The videos on there play for a few seconds and then freeze. Reolink support hasn't responded to any of my questions, which is another minus for them. I did notice that the unit seems to run very hot. Did I just get a dud? So are there any alternatives? Should I just try buying another of these? At least returns (Amazon, Walmart) are easy.

Hi All! I'm *very* new to home assistant, so forgive me if this is a bit of an obvious answer for someone who knows their way around a bit, but I'm having trouble controlling my tablet's active dashboard with the "command_webview" notification command. For reference, I'm using "madface"'s suggestion from [this link](https://community.home-assistant.io/t/unlock-tablet-screen-nativelly-on-motion-detector-kiosk-mode/514638) to handle the screen on/off behavior, and its working great, except for the fact that no matter what I use for the "command_webview" nested command: "/lovelace-flur" in the linked example, I cannot get the companion app to switch to any dashboard other than the default/main dashboard. I've traced the issue to [here](https://community.home-assistant.io/t/command-webview-only-opens-home-screen/461597/10), which implies a resolution can be found in the definition of ["path"](https://www.home-assistant.io/lovelace/views/#path), (linked from the [documentation for command_webview](https://companion.home-assistant.io/docs/notifications/notification-commands#webview)), but the link is dead as a doornail. My assumption is that the "path" corresponds to "https://homeassistant.<mydomain>.com/<path>", but that doesn't seem to do the trick, and I'm at a loss for other things to try in the absense of a working "path" documentation link. Hopefully someone here might be able to point me in the right direction? Any help is much appreciated!

Hi all! I searched to see if a thread was already created for this discussion but I didn't see one. Does anyone have any recommendations for a Home Assistant local only (preferably zwave or ZigBee) deadbolt? In the past I've had a Schlage unit that worked great, when it worked. It often had problems, battery life wasn't great, was on security 0, and wasn't water tight enough for my application as water damage finally killed this one. They're also a bit on the pricier side at >$200. Any other brands or technologies you would recommend?

I've over 40 zigbee devices and am currently using ZHA but keep seeing people recommending using zigbee2mqtt. But I can't work out if it's worth the time re-importing all the devices or not. What are the benefits of using zigbee2mqtt over ZHA and is it easy to move over if that's the best way to go?

Hello, i am a newbie in creating a smart home. I have researched a bit and planned the following stack just by reading and hopefully to get some suggestion to see if the following combinations would actually work #### Goal I am planning the main control to be Home Assistant, Homekit a nice to have, not necessary. I was looking at hubs (Aqara, Xiaomi, Ikea, Homepod) but a comment from r/aqara suggests that [ComBee II](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PZ7ZHG5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) is potentially a better solution #### Components that i think might work - Home Assistant + ComBee II: as the brain power - Light bulbs: ikea rgb and aqara white/cream colour - sensor: aqara - [curtain driver: aqara](https://www.jbhifi.com.au/products/aqara-roller-shade-driver-e1) - smart socket/plug: ikea and aqara #### Components not sure how to integrate - [Mijia sensors + display](https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/275298269753?chn=ps&_ul=AU&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1YHbt6D4ZSECMzOn87tgtHg40&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=275298269753&targetid=1598469862478&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071772&poi=&campaignid=19657035767&mkgroupid=143201283022&rlsatarget=pla-1598469862478&abcId=9305369&merchantid=510834583): This is a bluetooth device that works as sensor but i am just going display those information it catches - [Aqara door bell](https://www.amazon.com/Aqara-Doorbell-Included-Recognition-Automations/dp/B0BPHTL7MG): not sure if this is a zigbee 3 device or not - Other bluetooth device - Xiaomi vacuum: not sure what protocol but isn't the biggest matter - Unsure which brand is good for security cams #### questions - Any idea if the above makes sense in practice? - Any experience on the few items that I wasn't sure of?

So i got an ikea on/off switch, i i have it connected via zigbee2mqtt, it says there is newer firmware, but when i try to update to it, it doesn't do anything, i tried pressing the buttons on it while updating, because the zigbee2mqtt documentation for the switch said that but it still doesn't update

Most all of the tutorials for this say to use a ESP-01s with a voltage regulator but I Wanted to share a different solution I have found. I had some of these Amazon esp8266 hi let go chips laying around with the added benefit of being able to run on 5v. I found they fit pretty nice if you cut a hole in the top and pass the antenna out. It looks like they don't obstruct the airflow too much that way. They work great soldered directly to the Ikea board and also work for the constant 3.3v noise hack if you wire the fan positive to the 8266's 3.3v pin. Board used: HiLetgo 3pcs ESP8266 NodeMCU... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081CSJV2V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Instructable tutorial: https://www.instructables.com/Connecting-a-IKEA-Vindriktning-to-Home-Assistant-U/

- I have no garage door opener so I added a tag in my car to open the smart garage without having to open the app and fiddle with things. - I added a tag to our light switch that turns on our bedroom lamp (softer, more pleasant light at night). - I added a door tag to unlock the door (no information contained on the tag so nobody can break in). - I added a tag that pauses an automation at night so my stair lights don't come on with motion sensing. This is literally just the tip of the iceberg. I think of a new one every couple hours. Anyone have any other cool ones to share?

I occasionally find myself reinstalling home assistant and every time I do, I get stuck on two steps because I forgot the commands and didn't write them down from the last time. I'm writing them below mainly for myself but also for anyone else who may get stuck. For future reference, I'm using Ubuntu 23.04 with Virt-Manager. Before you begin the installation of the provided [qcow2](https://www.home-assistant.io/installation/linux) image, you might want to resize that image from 32G to whatever size you want. ex: `qemu-img resize haos_ova-10.3.qcow2 +68G` Next, you might want to make a network bridge device. Navigate to your netplan folder and backup the yaml file that's in there (your file may be named differently) `cd /etc/netplan` `cp ./01-network-manager-all.yaml ./01-network-manager-all.yaml.old` Edit the yaml config. `nano ./01-network-manager-all.yaml` Change the renderer to networkd and add the bridge device (br0). Your ethernet device may not be named enp12s0, make sure to use your ethernet device name. If you are on wifi, look up a netplan wifi config and make adjustments as needed. ``` network: renderer: networkd ethernets: enp12s0: dhcp4: true version: 2 bridges: br0: dhcp4: yes interfaces: - enp12s0 parameters: stp: true ``` save the file. generate and apply the new netplan. WARNING - If you are hosting this on your own network, it's possible the Ubuntu host IP could change. If you were doing these steps over SSH, you might need to find the new IP and reconnect. Static IPs can be set in the netplan config but I usually just do it from my router settings afterwards which is probably why the IP changed. `netplan generate` `netplan apply` Now just go through the installation process and when you select your network device, make sure you select "Bridge Device" and the device name is "br0"

I'm looking into setting up a home assistant smart lighting system just like [this person](https://community.home-assistant.io/t/my-complete-smart-home-lighting-setup-with-home-assistant/228752) has although they use the Lutron Aurora dimmer which isn't made to be placed on top of EU light switches. Is there a Dimmer switch that works for EU? I have found alternatives but they all require removal of the switch already in the wall rather than placing on top, which isn't very renter friendly