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Have you considered shimming your bed? Keep in mind that also X/Y rods (frame in your case) might be a reason for that. Flipping (rotating) rods might get you closer to a solution. Inspect each axis and plate individually (with light behind the ruller for example). Not the answer that you were looking for, but Id always try to fix the hardware first. BL touch is doing nothing, but only correcting hardware issues. Not needed if you fix them 😜 It will be easier with ABL on better tuned printer. Also you might find that you dont need one (hopefully)
Not always. Its 5-15 k € for a license with 1 year of updates. Many small companies find a way just like students do. Its just more user friendly and more powerfull. Im afraid Im too old to see foss on that level before I die, but Im sure it will get there one day.
I love the idea of 3D CAD foss on lemmy. Im gonna follow and hope it gets better and more popular
Yeah its 3x price so not worth if you achieve the same goal. Personally Id try to avoid bed slinger, but if I was buying one I would go for prusa just because I know they are approved. But if I was buying 200ish € printer id probably go for ender just because they take more than half of 3d printing content on the internet. I dont know much about sovol tho
Mate calling people morons because they buy a device and dont know how to use it is kinda funny, especcially if we talk about 3D printers. I bet you were one when you started, I was and most of people were. Im in this hobby 10+ years and still learning. When first DIY printers were made with threaded rods and zip ties people knew less than we do right now, but they were extremely important for us to have decent hoby machine at home that normal people can afford. Also talking like that about prusa and 1/5 price knockoffs performing the same feels like you have 0 experience with cheap knockoffs. Maybe you wanted to say 4/5 or 3/5? Support is not just about leveling your bed, good support can mean you get what you payed for and replacement parts if they are faulty. Cheap knockoffs tend to send faulty parts or frame and then not responding to email. Cheap knockoffs tend to clone brands like prusa, but they miss some important bits and then sell bad design that just look simmilar. Im not favoring prusa, I dont like bed slingers at all, but its the name that has been around for many years with good reputation. I dont want to be rude, but this is 3D printing forum for any skill level and mostly hoby/home machines. Building a voron is already advanced, but your suggestions are opposite of usefull for begginers.
OP had ender and he is looking for another device that is more plug&play and you suggest ender level machine or even cheaper. Its just wrong IMO
Prusa is more expensive and better mostly because its built better, not because of software. Any open source (marlin) board can be updated by user and its also easy to flash klipper for example.
Constant readjustments are due to bad design and no QC. If you want more reliable printer dont look for knockoffs. My first printer was prusa knockoff, it looks better than prusa, steel frame with no printed parts, but its not even close. Its collecting dust now
20x20x20 cm part can take a day to print. Speed matters ofc, but its not just about acceleration and max speed. Bigger nozzle can move slower and still print faster. Working printer prints faster than non working lol. Prusa is amazing, but be aware mini + is bed slinger with only one side of X gantry supported. I dont like that, but its still much better than ender like machines just because its built better and you get better support instead of faulty parts and design flaws. But if you are more into moding and debugging, enders are so cheap and they will make sure you know where is your allen key screwdriver. Both ways you can achieve amazing prints and have loads of fun. Even if you go for more expensive machine be prepared for begginer failures which can be quite frustrating.
For calibration you need temp tower and flow tower. You can just print hollow single wall cube with no top/bottom to make it quick print. Keep in mind that PLA especially quality one is quite forgiving so temp tower might look the same at all heights. Meassuring diameter and tuning flow will probably solve your problem
And one more thing, you said your first layer is always good. It can be good because you have perfect nozzle/bed distance and flow, BUT it can also look good if your distance is wrong and you compensate it with flow. So you might need to increase both flow and distance. You can also change flow for first layer only or change flow after first layer
Hard to tell, but obviously your printer is struggling on layer change and/or retraction. Assuming its not play in your mechanism, Id fitst try printing just that part of the model without retraction and see is the problem gone. If it is, maybe you have too high retraction distance that can cause partial clogs. If the problem persist maybe you are overextruding a bit and then nozzle drags that corner out of the position. Tiny overextrusion can be a pain when printing “walls only” models. Its more guessing than anything, it would be useful to see your calibration models
Please tell me more about your setup. Solidworks is the only app that holds me back from full switch to linux. I never tried windows vm in linux, hows the performance? What distro are you using? What vm? Version of windows and SW?
CAD on linux is far behind proffesional tools unfortunatelly. Even SW 2008 is amazing, but FOSS will need another 10-20 years to reach that level Im afraid
All cheap machines are thinkering machines. You have a chance to get faulty parts and bad support from manufacturer, but this community can help a lot. But even more expensive ones can be frustrating for begginers. Stick with open source products and you will get replacement parts much cheaper and also better support.
Ender 3 and prusa mini are both bed slingers where bed is moving while printing. Not best design, but its proven that they can produce high quality prints, just like any expensive fdm printer (with more tuning and lower speeds). Prusa mini got smaller build volume (good thing for cheap printers imo cuz it increases rigidity), but only 1 “Z tower” which im not a fan. I think you should compare prusa i3 with ender 3, but thats even bigger price difference. I think both are good deals, but prusa is more expensive. Its also probably better quality and prusa is well known respectable manufacturer. Ender is much younger but they are so popular, I believe they sell more printers than anyone else. Therefore great support from anywhere including this lemmy community, but dont expect much from creality. I think prusa is better especially for begginers, but its hard to beat crealitys low price.
Whatever you chose you need to dive deep in this hoby to have consistent prints. Bring a lot of patinece, do a lot of research and dont be afraid to ask when needed and have fun!
This is half solution, but still might be useful if there is nothing better available. There are wifi SD cards like toshiba flashair that can connect to your wifi and provide samba share folder (with some easy moding). Then you can save gcode directly from slicer and start the print from printer screen. Far from octoprint features, but still beter than moving sd card every time
You can do some math to identify resolution. Check your FW, quick search got me:
* Default Axis Steps Per Unit (linear=steps/mm, rotational=steps/°)
* Override with M92
* X, Y, Z [, I [, J [, K...]]], E0 [, E1[, E2...]]
*/
#if NEPTUNE_3_PRO
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.00, 80.00, 400.00, 380.00}
#elif NEPTUNE_3_PLUS
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.00, 80.00, 400.00, 390.00}
#elif NEPTUNE_3_MAX
#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.20, 80.20, 400.00, 390.00}
#endif
I guess its 380 steps/mm, but I should go deeper in that and do some math (gear teeth numbers, grub screw diameter) to confirm what resolution is original. Shouldnt be hard if you get all information needed, but still easier to ask them what stepper is that. Since its kinda standard 200 steps/rev would be my bet
Ye I couldn’t find any datasheet of that one. Maybe e-mail them and ask?
Well, I’d say any Nema17 bipolar (4 wires) 25 mm in length (similar current) and probably 1.8°/step or 200 steps/revolution (like most of them) should work. If you get wrong resolution (steps/revolution) your extruder will move wrong distance (like double), but you can change that in FW. And you should fine tune Vref (small screw on your stepper driver or in FW) to find sweet spot between heating and torque
Not worth to repair since they are cheap imo, but dont buy a motor before you confirm its not something else. You have 3 components, motor, wire and stepper motor. Plug it in x driver and move your x. If the problem is still there its motor or cable. Then switch cables if they are detachable, or visually inspect cable/connector. So if you are looking for feplacement, just find a label on your motor and search that on internet. If you dont chose the same model you might need to change your stepps/mm in fw or adjust current (vref). Its most likely nema17 bipolar 1.8 deg, but you have to check length to be sure it fits where your extruder should be. Simmilar size = simmilar power, but you shoudl fine tune your vref anyway. Too much current = motor overheating or stepper motor overheating and it can also skip, too low current = motor skipping. If it died you might be running it too hot, but you would probably burn driver first.
Its easier to learn snowboarding for people who know how to ski. It doesnt mean every snowboarder should start skiing first, but its not wrong if you enjoy it.
Its more about what you want to print and where. If you want to print tiny, high detail miniatures your FDM will suck. If you want to print in your living room better get FDM and print PLA, cuz for resin you need proper ventilation.
Have fun!
3D modeling and 3D printing are 2 different hobies and both have one thing in common, THEY LEECH LOADS OF TIME 🤣 Just saying, it doesnt need to be bad, I like it! But if you are beginner maybe start with only one.
Why first fdm, then resin? If you want resin printer just go that path. Resin is good for miniatures while filaments are better for mechanical properties and bigger size. Fdm is faster, but still extremely slow. For 20x20x20 cm model you need like 1 day or more to complete. Get something that supports klipper firmware, like ender (probably most cheap printers) and expect extra cost on upgrades.
For 3D modeling software you can chose open source Blender if you want to create sculptures or art thingies. Blender can do much more, but for mechanical parts you need CAD. You can make simple objects in any free software, like fusion or freecad. If you want proper CAD get solidworks. Super expensive for home users unless you can get it for free somehow, but loads of guides everywhere since its kinda industry standard.
I know you are looking for exact 3D printer models (hopefully others will cover that), but you might find this useful. GL
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He is horny 😂