I just got mine last week and have been playing it non stop. I had so many games that I wanted to play, but hate playing on a desktop since it’s more enjoyable to play when I’m with my wife and her switch or as she watches tv.
Such a big backlog.
I got the 64gb version and plan to upgrade the ssd at some point.
As someone who ordered the 64GB version, they never should have sold that thing. The entire thing gets filled with shader cache so fast. Not to mention any software you actually want to run on the device like EmuDeck, Chryoutils, Heroic Launcher, etc. etc.
How easy are we talking? I have literally 0 experience doing anything like that. I do have basic tech knowledge, but I haven’t customized any sort of computer since the early 2000’s (and even then we’re talking simply installing a new graphics card).
I want a steam deck, but I want more, and faster storage.
It’s very easy if you’ve done anything like this before. I would definitely follow a full guide, but the basic process is that you have to remove the microSD, take a few tiny screws out, pop the back open, unplug the battery, take a few more screws out, remove the heat shield, swap the SSD, and then put it back together.
After that you need to reinstall steamOS on the new drive, so you need a way to plug a USB drive into the deck (a dock, type-c adapter, or a type c USB drive). You can install the steamOS recovery software to it following the online instructions, boot the deck into bios with the USB drive plugged in, pick to boot off the USB drive, and then hit reinstall steamOS once the recovery desktop loads up.
Only part where I’ve seen people have problems is by stripping out the screws on the back of the deck. You have to make sure you are using an appropriately sized screw driver and that you have it fully inserted into the screw before turning. This usually isn’t hard to do, but if you strip a screw it can be hard to remove it.
I want to start out by saying I agree with everything you said, but I want to clarify by pointing out that Valve did trying to have a free floating battery but didn’t like how the console felt during testing. While they could have made a compartment I imagine the added weight and bulk (due to the battery shape) would not have been worth it.
Valve employees have said in interviews that they didn’t want the battery glued down, but that with the battery expanding and shrinking during use they couldn’t keep it from rattling around unless they glued it down. Other companies have managed this, so it’s not an impossible issue. However it wasn’t something valve was able to easily solve.
As far as hall effect joysticks go, I’m not going to complain when none of the modern first party console controllers come with hall-effect. Microsoft and Sony have pro controllers for $150-200 that don’t come with hall effect sensors. Valve making the thumbsticks easily replaceable is enough imo. Things could be much worse, the Asus Ally uses the same type of thumbsticks as Nintendo Joycons for example.
You know what can handle expanding and shrinking and hold things in place? Foam, or I’m sure a dozen other solutions engineers have come up with for this problem over the last 50+ years.
My understanding on why the motherboard was never made available is because it was going to be sold for $350, and it wasn’t worth selling a repair part for that much when you can buy a new 64GB deck for $50 more.
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A place to discuss and support all things Steam Deck.
Replacement for r/steamdeck_linux.
As Lemmy doesn’t have flairs yet, you can use these prefixes to indicate what type of post you have made, eg:
[Flair] My post title
The following is a list of suggested flairs:
[Discussion] - General discussion.
[Help] - A request for help or support.
[News] - News about the deck.
[PSA] - Sharing important information.
[Game] - News / info about a game on the deck.
[Update] - An update to a previous post.
[Meta] - Discussion about this community.
Some more Steam Deck specific flairs:
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[Selling] - If you are selling your deck.
Agreed. I love how moddable and repairable the Steam deck is.
I just got mine last week and have been playing it non stop. I had so many games that I wanted to play, but hate playing on a desktop since it’s more enjoyable to play when I’m with my wife and her switch or as she watches tv.
Such a big backlog.
I got the 64gb version and plan to upgrade the ssd at some point.
As someone who ordered the 64GB version, they never should have sold that thing. The entire thing gets filled with shader cache so fast. Not to mention any software you actually want to run on the device like EmuDeck, Chryoutils, Heroic Launcher, etc. etc.
That was my concern at first, but I figured it can be upgraded easily enough.
I used to do computer repair, so I’m not worried about doing to upgrade.
If it would just default this stuff to the SD card, I’d be able to hold out for much longer.
You can move it but it is not recommended. Plus having to constantly micromanage what is or goes where is tedious.
This. This is the main reason i bought mine, to just isolate myself less and play near my wife while she watches TV.
Upgrading the SSD is very easy, hope you enjoy your new deck!
How easy are we talking? I have literally 0 experience doing anything like that. I do have basic tech knowledge, but I haven’t customized any sort of computer since the early 2000’s (and even then we’re talking simply installing a new graphics card).
I want a steam deck, but I want more, and faster storage.
It’s very easy if you’ve done anything like this before. I would definitely follow a full guide, but the basic process is that you have to remove the microSD, take a few tiny screws out, pop the back open, unplug the battery, take a few more screws out, remove the heat shield, swap the SSD, and then put it back together.
After that you need to reinstall steamOS on the new drive, so you need a way to plug a USB drive into the deck (a dock, type-c adapter, or a type c USB drive). You can install the steamOS recovery software to it following the online instructions, boot the deck into bios with the USB drive plugged in, pick to boot off the USB drive, and then hit reinstall steamOS once the recovery desktop loads up.
Only part where I’ve seen people have problems is by stripping out the screws on the back of the deck. You have to make sure you are using an appropriately sized screw driver and that you have it fully inserted into the screw before turning. This usually isn’t hard to do, but if you strip a screw it can be hard to remove it.
Ya, that sounds way too complicated for my skill level. Guess I’ll have to wait until they release one with more storage.
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I want to start out by saying I agree with everything you said, but I want to clarify by pointing out that Valve did trying to have a free floating battery but didn’t like how the console felt during testing. While they could have made a compartment I imagine the added weight and bulk (due to the battery shape) would not have been worth it.
Valve employees have said in interviews that they didn’t want the battery glued down, but that with the battery expanding and shrinking during use they couldn’t keep it from rattling around unless they glued it down. Other companies have managed this, so it’s not an impossible issue. However it wasn’t something valve was able to easily solve.
As far as hall effect joysticks go, I’m not going to complain when none of the modern first party console controllers come with hall-effect. Microsoft and Sony have pro controllers for $150-200 that don’t come with hall effect sensors. Valve making the thumbsticks easily replaceable is enough imo. Things could be much worse, the Asus Ally uses the same type of thumbsticks as Nintendo Joycons for example.
Sounds like a simple piece of foam or a spring lever would work.
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deleted by creator
You know what can handle expanding and shrinking and hold things in place? Foam, or I’m sure a dozen other solutions engineers have come up with for this problem over the last 50+ years.
Let’s also not forget that PCBs were supposed to be available, but Valve never released the calibration tools, so they were never offered.
My understanding on why the motherboard was never made available is because it was going to be sold for $350, and it wasn’t worth selling a repair part for that much when you can buy a new 64GB deck for $50 more.
That may be true, but the daughterboards were going to be under $40