I’ve tried to report the issue to Prusa support but they keeps trying to diagnose it as user error. But at this point I’m at a loss and presume that it’s either a firmware issue or a sensor issue on my unit.
Either way im very disappointed.
And before you ask, this is the opposite side
EDIT: I will note that this print sheet is ruined for my use case, since those patterns will be shown on the underside of my prints. But the print surface still works and can be used without issue… if you ignore the gouges that are being detailed into every print.
I’d just shove some wood filler in the gaps to at least have a smooth floor even if it doesn’t look great. I feel like I’d stub my toes on that shit all the time.
What op should do is tap/slide the boards all to one end so the gaps all come together as one big gap at the less important side of the room. Maybe there’s a bookcase or tv against that wall so they don’t step there.
If this was during an auto level, it’s my humble opinion that this is a manufacturer’s defect in the machine that caused the damage. There should be proper coding to ensure that any increase in sensor pressure by (delta p) halt that machine and that there should be a pressure offset in the sensor such that a loss of signal or anomalous zero reading or lack of reading is done prior to levelling to ensure that a sensor failure has not occurred. My XL freaks out if a fan isn’t spinning at the right speed, so they clearly know that a nominal operational check before the print starts is proper engineering design.
Of course you won’t get anywhere. Unfortunately, a lot of 3D print failures really are user error so I suspect that’s their default response and it takes them a good deal of proof to push them of that mark.
I 100% agree, however I went Prusa for their replacement parts and long term support of said parts. Rather than their quality which outside of the bed levels on uneven surfaces has been good.
I had a similar thing happen to my smooth PEI sheet. Forgot to change sheet profile before printing and printer made some noises during printing. At first thought that the sheet is damaged, but after several days noticed that the sheet is actually fine. The noise was the extruder skipping because there wasn’t enough room for the material to go anywhere, and the lines on the sheet were just a very thin transparent layer of the material. Difficult to say from the images, but the lines seem to have the texturing intact? That implies the sheet is fine. The thin lines are difficult to remove without damaging the surface, especially because you have textured sheet, so you can’t use any solvent like acetone.
I just had to read up on the MK4 because I don’t own one. Apparently this machine uses a load cell on the bed to detect the nozzle touch? That means that to home Z or mesh level the bed, the nozzle has to touch the build surface. This strikes me as a rather bad idea. I can think of tons of situations such as a pointy diamond or ruby nozzle, a very hot nozzle, or a nozzle with hardened crud stuck to it all causing damage to the print sheet, not to mention the potential for damage to the nozzle itself.
Ideally the nozzle should never, ever touch the print surface. For any reason.
There’s a purpose behind things like the BL Touch having a soft plastic probe on the end.
Oh I’ve had my fair share of issues with this. i.e. little specs of the previous print color is stuck on the next print since I missed it during print clean up.
But if I am honest, for a normal spring steel PEI sheet it’s perfect. And I prefer this to the magnetic solution like on the Mini since it lets me use Garolite/G10.
Hey, just wanna point out that having a touch sensor built into the nozzle is definitely not unheard of, my printer (Neptune 3 from elegoo) uses the same sensor. It’s not the most reliable sensor in the world but it got the job done until I got my BLTouch.
In the cases you describe it should fail by ruining the print, not the build plate though. If there is something between the nozzle and the plate, it will be too far away from it after calibration, not too close.
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What is going on with your flooring my guy
Living in a 30 year old apartment for 5 years and no way to do repairs. It was liked this when I moved in.
$1,500 CAD/Month (current market $2000) Welcome to Halifax, NS!
I’d just shove some wood filler in the gaps to at least have a smooth floor even if it doesn’t look great. I feel like I’d stub my toes on that shit all the time.
What op should do is tap/slide the boards all to one end so the gaps all come together as one big gap at the less important side of the room. Maybe there’s a bookcase or tv against that wall so they don’t step there.
If this was during an auto level, it’s my humble opinion that this is a manufacturer’s defect in the machine that caused the damage. There should be proper coding to ensure that any increase in sensor pressure by (delta p) halt that machine and that there should be a pressure offset in the sensor such that a loss of signal or anomalous zero reading or lack of reading is done prior to levelling to ensure that a sensor failure has not occurred. My XL freaks out if a fan isn’t spinning at the right speed, so they clearly know that a nominal operational check before the print starts is proper engineering design.
Of course you won’t get anywhere. Unfortunately, a lot of 3D print failures really are user error so I suspect that’s their default response and it takes them a good deal of proof to push them of that mark.
I 100% agree, however I went Prusa for their replacement parts and long term support of said parts. Rather than their quality which outside of the bed levels on uneven surfaces has been good.
Oh, I didn’t mean to come off as dissing Prusa in general. I ponied up for an XL and it’s night-and-day better than any previous printer I’ve owned.
Now do it like 5 or 6 more times on the rest of the bed and now it’s textured for extra adhesion.
Are you sure the surface is damaged, and not just some material stuck on the sheet? Looks to me just a very thin layer of material on the sheet.
Oh I wish it was. I was even printing in clear. But sadly no it’s permanent.
I had a similar thing happen to my smooth PEI sheet. Forgot to change sheet profile before printing and printer made some noises during printing. At first thought that the sheet is damaged, but after several days noticed that the sheet is actually fine. The noise was the extruder skipping because there wasn’t enough room for the material to go anywhere, and the lines on the sheet were just a very thin transparent layer of the material. Difficult to say from the images, but the lines seem to have the texturing intact? That implies the sheet is fine. The thin lines are difficult to remove without damaging the surface, especially because you have textured sheet, so you can’t use any solvent like acetone.
I just had to read up on the MK4 because I don’t own one. Apparently this machine uses a load cell on the bed to detect the nozzle touch? That means that to home Z or mesh level the bed, the nozzle has to touch the build surface. This strikes me as a rather bad idea. I can think of tons of situations such as a pointy diamond or ruby nozzle, a very hot nozzle, or a nozzle with hardened crud stuck to it all causing damage to the print sheet, not to mention the potential for damage to the nozzle itself.
Ideally the nozzle should never, ever touch the print surface. For any reason.
There’s a purpose behind things like the BL Touch having a soft plastic probe on the end.
Oh I’ve had my fair share of issues with this. i.e. little specs of the previous print color is stuck on the next print since I missed it during print clean up.
But if I am honest, for a normal spring steel PEI sheet it’s perfect. And I prefer this to the magnetic solution like on the Mini since it lets me use Garolite/G10.
I’ve only seen this issue with the satin bed.
Hey, just wanna point out that having a touch sensor built into the nozzle is definitely not unheard of, my printer (Neptune 3 from elegoo) uses the same sensor. It’s not the most reliable sensor in the world but it got the job done until I got my BLTouch.
In the cases you describe it should fail by ruining the print, not the build plate though. If there is something between the nozzle and the plate, it will be too far away from it after calibration, not too close.