I’m on the free trial of DL. It’s still this ugly icon.

Wow. The “designed to fail” backdrop on the video says a lot about this. They’re aiming for clicks, rather than rigorous testing.

I’m not at all surprised that TVs aren’t designed to be used 24/7 by residential users. And I’m not at all surprised that running them for 10,000 hours straight causes a lot of problems for them.

And I wouldn’t be at all surprised to find out that overworking them in the short term like that isn’t the same as using them regularly and normally for 6 years. Some of those things might still happen, but some of it is death from overheating.

I have never worked there (or any other major tech company) but if I had a job there, I wouldn’t give it up until I’d found another job. Perhaps the people there aren’t going crazy at the job hunt and still just haven’t found another job they want.

It’s really easy to think “all the layoffs are over and I made it” and “job hunting is painful, I don’t want to do it today” and just coast for a long time.

I’m sure every awful thing he does spurs another effort for job hunting, but unless the job actually makes them work harder or fires them, it probably doesn’t change much for them.

Also, they get paid a lot more than I do, and sometimes it’s worth the pain to keep raking in that cash.

IMO, you didn’t get unlucky with the K1M or lucky with the P1S. That’s the normal state of printers. Most printers are hard to dial in well, and the Bambu printers work like a dream out of the box. Luck is involved for anyone that didn’t start in those states.

You can never get to “fully 3d printed” unless you can print metal, and even then the tolerances just aren’t there yet.

But if you want a 3d printer that’s as 3d printed as it can get, why not look at things that were designed for it, like Rook or Mulbot or The 100?

I’ve tried it on a textured PEI (ASA) sheet in multiple spots, and a smooth PEO (PLA) sheet, same results. It’s always the same size and orientation, thought the PLA one was a lot harder to see.

The plate isn’t that clean, and I’ve used a lot of 3DLAC on it. I’ll likely try cleaning it again soon out of desperation, but I can’t see it being likely to change anything.

I’ve tuned basically everything, and changing my pressure advance value made no difference. 105 bed, 245 hot end for ASA. 60/220 for PLA.

Check for errors in the developer console and the network tab?

In addition to what TheYang said, I wanted to note that the spec for 3d printed parts for Voron printers is:

4 walls 5 top/bottom layers 40% infill

These are parts designed for 3d printers, so they have to be pretty good. They recommend ASA or ABS because of the temperatures that the printers get up to. Most plastic parts you’re used to are ABS or something like it. Water bottles are PET which is similar to PETG, though of course they’re really thin so they’re super flimsy that way. Your part wouldn’t be flimsy, but the plastic would feel like strong PET. That’s not necessarily bad, just different.

Personally, I would recommend trying to find someone locally, and buying them a roll of a filament to print the parts for you. I’d budget $15-30 for each roll, and each roll will print 2.2 lbs of plastic parts, which should be more than enough for your stuff and some failures, and probably leave them some extra for their effort.

I think you can probably find someone who is also excited to see that keyboard come together and wants to be part of the build. And I think trying to print it online is going to be frustrating because there could be little mistakes that make the parts unusable that you won’t know to predict because you haven’t done it before. Or maybe not. It’s a gamble, IMO.

Yeah, I definitely think they’re extruding the insides too fast. Perhaps it’s a partial clog, or maybe the settings are too high.

I had an HP laser color printer long ago and loved it. I moved it between houses improperly and it died.

I bought a Brother laser, and it printed nice, but it curls thick paper. That made it nearly useless for papercraft, so I’m not a fan.

I bought an epson eco-tank inkjet printer. It works well enough, but it’s slow and if I don’t print for a while, it dries up and I need to run a cleaning cycle. The problem with that is that there’s a limited tank for the cleaning cycle ink in there, and once it fills up, you’ve got a problem. So I might end up worse off than regular inkjet cartridges because I don’t print enough.

So… I don’t have an answer for you. But you now know what I know. ;)

I tend to also think you have some kind of petg clog in there. Can you still print PETG just fine?

You’ve already accepted Fusion 360 as the answer, but I thought I’d provide my experience, too.

I picked up Fusion 360 pretty quickly because I’d dealt with 3d modelling programs in the past, such as Blender.

Openscad calls to me pretty strongly, but it’s kind of a weird mindset and almost more like a puzzle game than a productivity product. Freecad just has too many problems still, especially when dealing with the timeline.

And so I still use Fusion 360 any time I need to bash out something for around the house. For basic usage, I find it really easy to use. I’m sure I’ll get into more complex things later, but the ease with which Clough42 on youtube uses it to design nice things makes me think that it won’t be that hard to get more into it.