Howdy y’all, much like the title says, I’m looking to build a Hypercube. I have what was once upon a time an Ender 3 V1 that I’ve rebuilt with an Ender Extender kit. I’m not happy with the aggressive ghosting I get from the 400x400 bed so I wanted to cannibalize the electronics and build the frame from scratch. I was also planning on keeping the bed since it’s got a stick on heater and thermistor that’ll work well with the new setup. Hotend too, probably, since it’s an all metal Micro Swiss.
Any gotchas to look out for? I know belt tension is a biggie once I get it together, but any gotchas to look out for in the build process?
I’m not too nervous about throwing together a custom firmware for this, it’s not my first custom firmware and I’m a software guy by trade so it’s pretty straightforward for me.
You wanna be mindful to get the plane that the hot end moves around on parallel with the bed as best as possible. Software leveling and adjustment are nice, but starting with something very parallel is a whole lot better.
And if you have the option I’d consider using precision rails instead of steel rods for movement in the x/y axis, you can get cheap ones from like Ali express but they’ll be better for print precision.
With the hypercube we built at my last job, we were building a second printer but with rails instead of rods and my boss said he was way happier with the result, and we spent a while re-leveling the extruded aluminum pieces that our rails (that the hot end moved along) were mounted to, and that also helped.
Regardless, its better not to worry too much and just get started. I’m really bad about trying to perfect things or get everything just right right off the bat when I’d be better served by just starting and then figuring things out from there
One thing id definitely look towards is using klipper for the firmware side of things, being able sing an adxl345 (accelerometer) makes dialing in input shaper a breeze. And should get rid of most of the ghosting.
Check if your extrusions are straight if you’re reusing chinesium.
Watch out when/while building the Z axis, you don’t want to print parallelepipeds!
Otherwise no advice, it’s pretry straightforward.
You are not logged in. However you can subscribe from another Fediverse account, for example Lemmy or Mastodon. To do this, paste the following into the search field of your instance: !3dprinting@lemmy.world
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at:
!functionalprint@kbin.social
or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at:
!cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
Do not create links to reddit
If you see an issue please flag it
No guns
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
You wanna be mindful to get the plane that the hot end moves around on parallel with the bed as best as possible. Software leveling and adjustment are nice, but starting with something very parallel is a whole lot better.
And if you have the option I’d consider using precision rails instead of steel rods for movement in the x/y axis, you can get cheap ones from like Ali express but they’ll be better for print precision.
With the hypercube we built at my last job, we were building a second printer but with rails instead of rods and my boss said he was way happier with the result, and we spent a while re-leveling the extruded aluminum pieces that our rails (that the hot end moved along) were mounted to, and that also helped.
Regardless, its better not to worry too much and just get started. I’m really bad about trying to perfect things or get everything just right right off the bat when I’d be better served by just starting and then figuring things out from there
Sounds like you’ll just end up with an ender 6. Maybe you can use that firmware and parts list and build guide?
One thing id definitely look towards is using klipper for the firmware side of things, being able sing an adxl345 (accelerometer) makes dialing in input shaper a breeze. And should get rid of most of the ghosting.
Check if your extrusions are straight if you’re reusing chinesium. Watch out when/while building the Z axis, you don’t want to print parallelepipeds! Otherwise no advice, it’s pretry straightforward.