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Joined 1Y ago
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Cake day: Jun 09, 2023

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Check out the Tarmo project. I’ve been wanting to put one together for a while.


I realize I’m reviving a super old post here, but I actually did end up figuring out what it was. I posted a little writeup in here if you’re at all curious. You were actually kinda close.


Because I hate when people ask questions and never go back to update their original post when they solve the issue, I’m gonna post an update here and now.

The fix was actually surprising but simple. I ended up moving the second Z axis lead screw carriage mount a bit further towards the motor. That is, the piece that supports the build plate, where it connects to the leadscrew.

Further diagnostics ended up showing me that it was binding, and one of the problems I had later on was that it was binding but only when going up. So I ended up having prints that got progressively more and more stretched out along the z axis.

Moving it to be further in line and loosening a few mount screws to allow the nut to come back to vertical got me to where I needed to be. Hope this helps!


I think I’ll give that a swing. Thanks for your input!


I think you might be onto something but the other direction. I think it’s not moving quite enough per layer.


Yep. I calibrated all the e-steps too. Not just the extruder, but the the movement e-steps as well.


Troubleshooting a fully custom build
Hey y'all, I managed to hack together a printer from scratch and I'm struggling to get it to print well. It's a CoreXY system that's being controlled by a Octopus 1.1. Dual z screws, the works. I have it moving under it's own power and all. It's able to actually print, but the results are atrocious. I'm just trying to diagnose what's wrong here. ![](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/aa55ee14-4782-46bc-98b6-7d958ea4e6af.jpeg) ![](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/cb91e325-c79f-429f-9121-d42eb4564b25.jpeg) The bottom/first layer actually looks kinda good. It's just completely shredding subsequent layers. ![](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/f60a0b38-344d-4fa6-a62d-d1cd1e279307.jpeg) ![](https://lemmy.world/pictrs/image/228c8211-58dd-404b-bfd1-6e365734eca5.jpeg) Any advice would be appreciated!
fedilink

What retraction settings do you have? I’m wondering if maybe that’s contributing to your jamming.


Building a Hypercube and looking for advice
Howdy y'all, much like the title says, I'm looking to build a Hypercube. I have what was once upon a time an Ender 3 V1 that I've rebuilt with an Ender Extender kit. I'm not happy with the aggressive ghosting I get from the 400x400 bed so I wanted to cannibalize the electronics and build the frame from scratch. I was also planning on keeping the bed since it's got a stick on heater and thermistor that'll work well with the new setup. Hotend too, probably, since it's an all metal Micro Swiss. Any gotchas to look out for? I know belt tension is a biggie once I get it together, but any gotchas to look out for in the build process? I'm not too nervous about throwing together a custom firmware for this, it's not my first custom firmware and I'm a software guy by trade so it's pretty straightforward for me.
fedilink

I ended up getting the 410x410 for my Ender 3 a few months ago since I built it out with the Ender Extender kit. I also like it, and the only times I have problems with adhesion is when my filament is wet.


I’m actually making the swap to full linear too. I have the Ender Extender XL kit, and I’m not loving the way the rollers work with it. I printed a dual Z setup but it’s been fiddly. I’m hoping that the linear setup will get me where I want to be.


Are you, by chance, a software developer? It’s the only other context I’ve heard for unit tests, and I would probably have taken a slightly different approach to it.

If I look at the cavity, I see three sections I could divide it up into. The left side with your tees, the middle section, and the far right with the curves. I would likely have modeled each of those little components, printed a section that’s a few layers high to test the fit, and then once I was happy, I’d have joined them all together. Why? Because each failure is smaller, and I can iterate on my design faster.

This isn’t me saying either approach is correct. Just offering an alternative perspective to consider


Are you actually using PLA as the die surface? If so, have you considered printing a version of this that will create a piece that could be used to cover the PLA for the desired size? That way you wouldn’t have the PLA itself having to hold the desired shape, you could essentially have a metal cap over it that would create a piece that’s your desired size.

If you’re not opposed to taking inspiration from the gunsmithing world, there’s a PLA printed jig out there to form sheet steel on a 10+ ton shop press. It’s specific to the G3/CETME rifles. It’s worth a check-out to see if there’s anything that could help your design.


Interesting development so far. Really, what you need to do is start thinking about your logistics though. If this campaign takes more than a few turns, how will you maintain supplies to the battlefield?

My vote is for supply convoy to E0. Directly behind the king so that he can help coordinate logistics deployments out to the field.

You may want to consider stationing an artillery company behind one of your knights in the next move or two. It should give you overall command and control of the board a lot more effectively than a direct engagement and exposes your forces to a lot less direct danger. Though you’ll want to also be ready for some counterbattery fire, should black decide to deploy an artillery company as well.


Honestly wicking it all up and laying fresh solder wouldn’t be the worst thing. Just… don’t attack it with the knife or whatever you’re doing, op. This can be saved with the correct tools. A wick and some patience will carry the day.