No, the music overlay music offered in the app is licensed and can be added. Creators who are performing covers, I believe, generally have the license held by TikTok or have their videos muted/taken offline. Special arrangements are made for intentional or encouraged content . That is a guess, but things like Megan Trainor’s “Gucci” where she is both the original artist and a participant would be a case like this. I would think Grace Kelly and sing alongs on arrangement-bound copyright material like Pentatonix doing public domain carols (or even Roger’s and Hammerstein) are negotiated licensing if outside of their pre-negotiated license.
Hey - thanks for doing this. There’s one sub for a specialty 3d printer I want to keep tabs on but the sub is “unreviewed“ and unavailable on the web as it may contain inappropriate content (it doesn’t, unless you count people bitching about component troubleshooting). It’s available on your gateway. It seems to bypass all content restrictions, convenient for mobile browsing.
Well I’ll be damned. TBH, I didn’t even know about the refresh - I enjoy mine enough that I’m not really in the market. Also, I snagged a TB ssd for $50 last month and installed it so, aside from the OLED I’m happy where I am. Besides, I’m such a casual I just can’t get bent about that last 5% of black.
My only real gripe is that the SSDs aren’t being refreshed as component prices drop. There’s no reason for the entry level not to be 256 now, with 512 mid range and 1TB top end. Retail - and I presume wholesale - prices on the parts have dropped by half or more since the deck was launched. There may be contractual issues involved, but - for Valve - it would make sense to make these machines as self-contained as possible. Yes, you can by a SD card, but at this point you probably shouldn’t have to. And, lets face it, 64GB on a gaming device is pretty limiting. Just start slotting in larger drives as the inventory breaks the previous price floor and inventory is cleared.
More like everyone taking Zucks side in his cage match with Elon. We hate them both, a lot, but you’ve got to choose someone to root for.
For me it’s a bit like slime mold. I can mostly avoid contact with Amazon if I choose to; influencers just spring up organically around me an no amount of bleach can get rid of them.
Once a month, on average, I’d guess. I just thought it’d be a nice way to game in the living room. It is, and I’d buy it again. Prior to opening it I would go months between times that I play. I wish I had more time to customize it, really, as the control scheme offers so many possibilities. But I can game or I can bind, and not both.
Knowing what kind of prints you want to make informs the purchasing decision. I’m with @Hazdaz@lemmy.world - we would want to know what kind of stuff OP wants to print to make the best recommendation. They may not have articulated the concern well, focusing on the impracticality of most SLA parts for mechanical components, but the question to OP stands: what do they want to print? The fineness of feature and speed of printing, the volume - or even single or dual axis size - of parts.
OP - from reading your list of printers, if you just want to “try it out” as you did with cheap FDM, grab a Anycubic Mono 4K to start (currently $160US with a coupon). It will only print small items, but will print them with excellent detail and reasonable speed. Spend a few extra on the magnetic build plate, I find it invaluable to have two spring-steel build plates that lets me swap a blank plate onto the printer while my current print and plate is getting washed/cleaned up.
The wash station is almost useless (or at least I find it quicker to wash by hand/soft brush in small tubs) but a cure station is convenient if you don’t want to wait for daylight to cure your prints. If you want to see if resin is viable for you, skip the station and save the money to begin with.
There are some “tough” and “ABS-like” resins which are quite a bit less fragile/brittle than the basic stuff, but I’d still be wary of using them in parts that get lots of UV exposure over time. I’ve only tried a couple: OPTO ABS-Like seems to have good fracture toughness but it’s super difficult to get it to a final cure state. It sands very easily, though. Anycubic Tough resin is, as it’s name implies, better fracture toughness, but I’ve only done a couple of prints and can’t speak to the long term.
For game pieces and miniatures, resin is amazing compared to FDM. I printed a Niffler (HP/Fantastic Beasts) in FDM and still haven’t gotten around to cleaning up all the support flash. The SLA/resin version I printed was smaller due to my printer size, but required near zero cleanup despite all the crazy fur overhangs, and I got it painted in a weekend.
I’ll agree with you when a corporation is jailed for life when an employee or consumer of their product dies. Until then, this is simple theft and should be financially punished.