I’m a 3D printing wanna-be, not even an amateur. Have seen a few printers, helped assemble one long time ago, played with the software a little, though I have never actually printed anything myself yet. I decided to spend some saved money on a printer for myself.

My goals are getting hands-on experience with printing and being able to use it as a tool in projects/everyday life. I’m considering an FFF one rather than SLA one, mostly due to the toxicity of resin (and costs). Printing speed is unimportant. Print quality matters, but only to some satisfactory degree and it’s not paramount. I imagine I might buy another one in a few years, so I don’t need a printer for life, but it needs to serve sufficiently for this period. I’m open to the possibility of repairing/upgrading it, if it can be done reliably by an amateur.

I’m strongly considering Prusa MINI+, but it’s not a final decision and I’ll be happy to hear your feedback. I’m posting this here in hopes that if I’m making a mistake, people more competent than me will stop me. If there’s anything else you think I should know, I’ll be happy to hear it.

@MrQuallzin@lemmy.world
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21Y

I started with an Elegoo Neptune 2S and (after printing some modifications) is my go-to for most projects

The Prusa definitely is a good printer. But have a look at a flashforge finder 3 or even the adventurer 4. it is way more fun when everything works out of the box.

I just ordered my first ever printer as well! Prusa mk4 here because i can write it off and it’ll live in the shop later on - my shop guy approved this choice. By all accounts Prusa is one of the best supported brands, which was appealing to me since I’ll have employees working with it as well.

Would love to know what you end up choosing and why, since I’ve just gone through the same process and likely will again in the future.

Keep us posted, and looking forward to spamming y’all with my stupid noob questions when it arrives!

Personally I have a Prusa Mk3s+. I’m not a hater or a fan boy. There are definitely things I don’t like about it and they are expensive, but the thing I think most people like about them is that they just sort of work. This is very valuable, especially when you’re just starting out.

But what I really came here to say is that to 3d print, you need to do more than just buy a printer. Don’t forget, unless you just want to print doohickies you find on the net, you also have to learn how to use 3d graphics programs. The most common is probably fusion360. It’s free for hobbieists but there are some drawbacks. There is easily as much to be learned about this drafting as there is about the printer. There is also another free program called FreeCad. The learning curve for both of these is a bit steep to get proficient, but not too bad to get started.

You also need to learn about the filaments. When I printed something using PLA, the default material often provided with the machine, my dimensions were spot-on. Unfortunately, most of what I wanted to print either was used on a car or needed to be transported in a car. I live in a hot environment and PLA simply won’t stand up to those temperatures. So I started printing with ASA and regrettably this is difficult to print with and my dimensions are always a bit iffy. This material and many others require an enclosure to print, something else to consider. You also might need a way to dry your filament and keep your filament dry.

I’m not trying to discourage you. All of these things can be overcome. I just wanted to inform you.

If you go onto YouTube and watch some videos, you can get a lot more info. I recommend the following:

Thomas Sanladerer CNC kitchen Zack Freedman

Enjoy!

@mctit@lemmy.world
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11Y

Can you clarify what happens that causes the dimensions to be off with certain types of filaments? Is it warping or something?

@flustered@lemmy.world
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11Y

Asa/ABS and alike will shrink

@IMALlama@lemmy.world
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31Y

Before you head down the FDM or SLA path, consider what you will be printing.

FDM prints will be stronger and don’t require any post-proceasing. They will require mechanical post processing (filling, sanding) if you want smooth features, but depending on what you intend to use the part for this might not be necessary. Some filaments, like ABS and ASA require some caution while printing (they release VOCs) and some filaments can absorb water while they’re out in the open, causing a decrease in print quality. If you stick to PLA and/or go through spools reasonably quickly it won’t be an issue. I print mainly PETG and while I don’t dry my spools and store them out in the open I don’t really have any issues with older spools.

SLA prints can have much smaller features, but require post processing (rinse and cure). SLA printers also tend to have smaller build volumes. There’s also the whole having to deal with unused resin thing and the fact that you probably should collect waste products and dispose of them properly. But if you’re making minis or something like that you’re much better off with a SLA printer.

On the FDM printer, a cheap stocker printer with a big following (eg Ender) is usually a fine option. There will be a lot of support in terms of community and parts. I’ve been running a rebranded Wanhao I3 clone, which is essentially an earlier ender, for 5+ years without much modifications. That said, if you find yourself going down the upgrade rabbit hole you might be better off buying up a tier. Prusas are well thought out and generally pretty reliable. Personally, I’m in the process of building a Voron 2.4. It’s going to be overkill, but it’s also a great platform. I am not sure that I would recommend one for your first printer unless you’re fairly mechanically inclined.

AnonStoleMyPants
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21Y

Do note that there are two things to consider: do you want 3D printing to be a hobby, or a 3D printer?

The former points you toward things like Prusa, who has an excellent track record on reliability and being a work horse. They give support if need be and just high quality.

The latter means things like Ender 3 etc. They have perhaps a larger user base and lots of places to find info on what upgrades to do, and how to get most out of the machine. But they might not perform as worry free as the other kind. It is not that they won’t give you a beautiful print, it is more that they are more prone to problems and can be lacking in certain aspects, hence, problems / necessary upgrades are most likely expected at some point.

The former is roughly speaking 2-3x as expensive as the latter kind, assuming similar print space.

@Hazdaz@lemmy.world
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41Y

Get a Prusa but maybe not the mini unless you can’t expand your budget or very tight on space. Some of the big limitations of 3D printing is size and speed. You claim to not care about speed, but trust me, you will. In terms of size, a smaller print volume really limits what can be printed. Some will claim that it’s no big deal because you can glue pieces together and that is partially accurate, but at some point you’re just going to want to print something in one piece and not have to endlessly assemble it from many small pieces. If you have the space and budget get the larger Prusa model.

@rambos@lemmy.world
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21Y

20x20x20 cm part can take a day to print. Speed matters ofc, but its not just about acceleration and max speed. Bigger nozzle can move slower and still print faster. Working printer prints faster than non working lol. Prusa is amazing, but be aware mini + is bed slinger with only one side of X gantry supported. I dont like that, but its still much better than ender like machines just because its built better and you get better support instead of faulty parts and design flaws. But if you are more into moding and debugging, enders are so cheap and they will make sure you know where is your allen key screwdriver. Both ways you can achieve amazing prints and have loads of fun. Even if you go for more expensive machine be prepared for begginer failures which can be quite frustrating.

At this point, if you get an Ender 6, Manta E3EZ+ CB1 EZ2209 drivers, I’ve got you on my config and setup instructions. Otherwise, I would stick to a printer like the Bamboo X1 that does all of the slamming your head against your printer for you.

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