A/S/L: Old enough 2 ASL/;3/Pits of despair

Pronouns: :3 / >:3

Mental Health: Dangerously unstable

Spoken languages: Cringe / Acadian French / English

  • 2 Posts
  • 37 Comments
Joined 1Y ago
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Cake day: Jun 14, 2023

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They’re like… really tasty tho…


Nice! You could try hitting it with varnish or stain! Makes the wood look much more convincing.

Edit:

Here’s an example of what it can look like

Edit 2 hahah: Just saw someone else had mentioned it and that you’ve already experimented with it in your original post in 3DPrinting






Hopefully it’s not too much of a pain in the ass, or at least leads to a fix. Good luck!


Yeah I got the same thing where it seems to pull when it’s switching direction but it’s nowhere near as bad as how it is on yours. I’m thinking it might be a physical issue with your printer.


Actually noticed my settings were not “default” at all because I had selected options in the calibration test section. I just started an actual default print with a top, bottom, multiple walls and infill hahah.

I’m printing with grid infill. Gonna cancel and try with gyroid.


Well, I just printed a cylinder and my seams are just fine with “default settings”.

I say “default” because originally I saw some weird stuff in the preview but it turned out to just be because for some reason spiral vase mode was on by default.


Could you tell me where in OrcaSlicer you found this cylinder? I can’t seem to find it in the calibration tests.

Edit: Nvm found it hahah


Yeah that’s definitely a possibility. I’m just finishing up my start g-code, gonna see what happens if I try to print that cylinder. Hopefully my printer doesn’t blow up or something 🤞


Hmm, I’ve never tried OrcaSlicer. I’m curious, installing it now.


Is there a way I could see the file you’re trying to print?


Did you notice this kind of thing happening before you switched your hot end? I’m assuming you’ve tested printing at a higher temp already but I have to ask anyway. 200C is kinda low for some PLAs.



Yeah I thought that might happen too. I’ve never seen seams like that before. What temp are you printing at?


That’s a really weird looking z-seam, something is going on there that I’m not quite sure the cause of.

However, in this case I think you could try randomizing z-seam position. It’s not gonna fix the issue completely but it might help you with this particular part.



Yeah I will keep that in mind for future parts I make. For now though since this is my first time using CAD software I’ll stick with good enough hahah


Oh, I actually got it working now using @dual_sport_dork’s instructions but I will save your comment because that is probably the better way to do things. I’m sure I’ll encounter the need for it soon enough hahah. Thank you!


Omg that was actually so simple. I thought about that too but I never actually used the pocket button I would always just switch to the Tasks tab in Combo View, but for some reason that tab is empty when you select a cloned sketch so I thought that meant whatever I did to the original would just apply to the clones. The button works just fine though.

Thank you so much for your help!


Okay so I’ve made 2 clones of the sketch from the Draft workbench and put one into each body but it still doesn’t seem to apply the pocket to the other bodies.

Not sure if I did something wrong. Create clones of sketch, place them inside each body container for the 2 side panels, switch back to Part Design workbench, select original sketch and then Pocket. Am I doing this right?


Ohhhh I really appreciate you taking the time to write this. I’m gonna have to reread this a couple times for my slow brain to get it but I think I might be able to follow and get it to work.

Thank you so much! I’ll reply back either once I’ve figured it out or right before I blow my brains out!


Well it’s all in the same file. I created separate “bodies/parts” within the same FreeCAD file but now I’m thinking I might try to split off each part and save them as individual files and then try to merge all three files as one part to make the pocket and then somehow try to split them back with the pocket intact.


Hmm well I could try something like that as long as I can still export each part as individual STL files. I could just make that my last step. I’ll look into that, thank you!

Unfortunately I don’t have AutoCAD but I do have friends that have it. As a last resort I can always send them my file and have them do that last step for me.


----SOLVED---- Thank you to everybody for your assistance. I managed to get to where I wanted thanks to instructions provided by @dual_sport_dork Thank you, thank you, thank you! -------------- Not sure if anyone can help me here. I am pretty lost and confused and wouldn't mind if someone could ELI5 something for me. I've never used a real CAD software before yesterday night and I'm struggling a bit, I tried googling things but it's just sending me deeper into a rabbit hole of things I do not understand yet. I'm trying to make this speaker enclosure I've seen just to do something with this shitty bluetooth speaker I have, so I decided to recreate the enclosure myself. Long story short, I realized I kinda screwed myself after disassembling the bluetooth speaker and now I need to make a 2mm deep pocket on top of the case to snap in the buttons module. I don't really feel like starting the design again from scratch. Anyway, as you can see in the attached image, I need to make a big round pocket on top, but both side panels are separate bodies so my pocket only goes through the main body and ignores the 2 other bodies. I can think of other ways to achieve what I want but I'd really like to figure out a way to do it from where I am right now, if possible. I've seen the term shape binder and "union" in my searches but I can't quite figure it out. Thank you to anyone who bothered reading this lol EDIT: For anyone who might see this and is curious about how the enclosure is performing, I finished printing the main body and assembled it to test. Am still missing the side panels and I have to design some kind of flange cover for the driver but here's what I got so far: [Ratchet speaker enclosure test](https://www.youtube.com/shorts/RltzRczyP6E)
fedilink

Yeah I really hope other car makers follow because I fucking hate touch controls in cars with a burning passion. It’s idiotic and not safe at all.



Eh, yeah maybe you’re right but it’s such a tremendous amount of performance to lose out on for a couple keystrokes. Any halfway decent guide for beginners should be mentioning it but I don’t know how people outside my circles build computers. Do they read/watch guides? Do they just plug shit together and pray that it works? 🤷‍♀️


Well what we’re talking about here is just memory speeds, not core overclocking. If you’re building a computer and you’re paying for RAM that is rated at a certain speed, you need to enable XMP to have it run at that speed. Since the memory controller is now integrated into CPUs, intel considers that overclocking so it voids your warranty. I think most people who are buying CPUs to build their own PCs know this and will not run at base JEDEC speeds.


It’s a bit shitty because we then have to trust that they won’t use this as an excuse to void the warranty on chips that had a fatal defect to begin with. Overclocking is pretty safe unless you’re doing extreme overclocking and they won’t say how they determine if a failure was caused by an overclock or not.

It’s definitely “more fair” for AMD than Intel to do it since they don’t charge a premium for unlocked processors but I still don’t like it. They developed PBO, it’s a feature included with the CPU I bought, I want to be able to use it without fear of losing my warranty, but even just enabling that will trip that fuse.



That’s a bit shitty but hopefully they don’t just use it as a trap to deny any warranty coverage on an overclocked CPU.

Meanwhile Intel will void your warranty if you’ve enabled XMP. I don’t know if they have a way of telling if you did so or not but they will try to trick you into admitting it when you’re asking for an RMA.


I’ve noticed that when I open a video in a new tab instead of just left-clicking it. Slightly annoying but better than ads and using chrome.


Ok but what exactly are they doing about it other than show that pop up? I’ve been getting it for the past couple days and I simply press the X and my video continues playing. It’s annoying and I’m sure they’re gonna make it more and more annoying and more difficult to block but other than that. What are they doing?


I’m actually happy about that, because now if I accidentally click on a Twitter link, I won’t have to actually load the tweet.