https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_public_corporations_by_market_capitalization

Awesome project!

Molex MicroFit 3.0 are my gold standard for general purpose low voltage connectors. I buy from an electronics distributor (Digikey or Mouser) and crimp my own connectors. However, I did find a listing on Amazon for pre-crimped jumper wires and connector housings.

https://a.co/d/hrrtj3f

Use an x-acto knife or a $5 PTFE cutter for best results.

Direct link to the Aruba Collection

Good luck! Hate that you are having to deal with this.

You may have luck with a slow (5W) charger according to the comments here.

Did you try putting your deck temporarily into Battery Storage Mode?

Looking at the product page, this appears to be a sensor/indicator you put on a camera/monitor to determine if the shot is level. It probably has a microcontroller doing sensor fusion of gyroscopic/accelerometer sensors to present a smooth result.

Your first layer seems inconsistent. What z sensor are you using? Were these printed in quick succession or did the printer have time to cool?

My thinking is this could be due to thermal drift in your homing sensor. First print will be solid, then subsequent prints will have a warmed up sensor resulting in a different z offset. Try minimizing variables by making your preheating consistent. Or just baby step the z-axis during the print start.

New: Motherboard, Heatsink, and PSU

Used: CPU, RAM, GPU, and Case

The majority of components you find on the used market are pulled out of working systems and will be just fine for years to come. I only recommend buying those specific items new so you are guaranteed to get all the accessories that come with them.

Great tip! I spent a long time chasing issues with TPU only to realize the spool to extruder section was the culprit. Bypassed the runout sensor and put the spool on bearings to fix the issue.

The heat lamp did help for the couple parts I was having issues with. I now mostly use a mini trident for most of my ABS printing. The heat lamp only comes out when I need to do a large print on the Voron2.

There was a Nero3D (Canuck Creator) video a while back where he said acrylic is better at insulating than ACM so I went from ACM to acrylic. Plus the smoked translucent acrylic looks better. I bought the ACM from PrintedSolid originally and have since reused it for other projects.

I have the nevermore under my Voron2 300 and it still struggles with prints like you posted. Switching from ACM to Plexiglass panels helped improved insulation somewhat. The hack that I use in a pinch for big prints is a terrarium heat lamp with temp control hanging from the top of the printer.

Chamber temps need to be higher for such a long skinny print because it will contract significantly lengthwise. The fun part is that if you get better bed adhesion without higher chamber temps then it could bend the whole bed sheet into a taco temporarily. Try setting your bed at 110C for an hour before printing with the part fan blowing on the center of the bed to help circulate the air.

I have a voice assistant in every room so it can automatically recognize what lights I mean when I say “turn off the lights”. Controlling individual lights can be a little annoying so my Living Room Left and Right lamps are just called Fred and George.

Do you happen to know what your chamber temperature was? Ideally, you want to be at 60C to minimize stress cracks like that. ABS shrinks as it cools and will rip itself apart depending on the geometry of the part. My large printer needed a fan blowing on the bed to get reliable ABS prints. Well worth it though because ABS is a joy to post-process.

For bed adhesion, I use a small amount of Nano Polymer Adhesive on textured PEI for my ABS prints.

I’ve always wanted to be able to get information about landmarks as I drive. If I drive by something that has a Wikipedia entry my car should offer to read the summary to me. Unfortunately, ChatGPT will probably be saturated with hallucinated information for a fraction of the minor landmarks I inquire about.

It is undoubtedly an impressive extruder assembly, but the cost is a bit too high for me to consider it. Best of luck to them.

Washington Post is currently $4/4-weeks or $40/year USD for unlimited articles.

You may want to take a look at pressure advance if you haven’t already. Seems to help a lot with retraction on bowden printers.

https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/pressure_linear_advance/introduction.html

I haven’t played it on the deck, but the game itself was fun. The controls are more approachable and arcade like than a space sim such as Elite Dangerous. VR + HOTAS is the way to go if you want to really feel like you are flying an X-Wing. My only complaint is that it involves EA.

Just put an automatic fire extinguisher in there to be safe. These are common in apartments without sprinkler systems.

https://a.co/d/j0lRBOC

Polymaker Matte Cotton White 3kg

I just bought it, played it on the deck for 2 minutes, and refunded it. The duck doesn’t move so all you really do is use the mouse cursor to look around.

In case anyone is curious, the printer in the picture is 1100x1100x820 mm and costs $50k USD.

https://builder3dprinters.com/us/product/builder-extreme-3000-pro/

My favorite is a small module I added to my KVM so I can toggle it via voice or StreamDeck.

My opinion is that retro is at least 2 generations ago.